Despite Poiret’s hobble skirt being an outlier in the trend of creating less restrictive clothing, it was a very popular style from about 1909 to 1914. The skirt acquired its name from the small steps, or hobbling, of its wearer. Though it may not look it now, this suit was likely expensive due to the use of fancy weaves (matelassé and jacquard) and the rich metallic brocade used for the capelet and lapels.

This dress is a great example of Oriental influence on 1910s fashion. Not only does the dress present kimono-style cap sleeves, but many motifs reminiscent of Asian language characters are embroidered around the skirt, bodice, and sleeve cuffs, as well. The crochet lace inserts also exhibit a swirling botanical pattern, likely inspired by the Art Nouveau movement.

Subject

Orientalism, Art Nouveau
 

Source

K-State Historic Costume & Textile Museum, Anonymous Donor, 1987.59.1

This columnar dress with its deep square neckline takes inspiration from both classical Greek and Empire styles. The winding floral embroidery and geometric shapes are characteristic of the naturalistic style of Art Nouveau.

Subject

Art Nouveau, Historical Inspiration

Source

K-State Historic Costume & Textile Museum, Gift of Vida Harris, 1987.65.1

This walking ensemble consisting of a dress and coat is an example of the less popular revival of the late 18th-century Directoire style. The standing collar, cut-in exposing the area below the buttons, and separated collar and lapels of the jacket are characteristic of men’s coat styles during the Directoire period. The diamond shapes embroidered on the high neck of the dress are also reminiscent of a common motif used in Directoire decorative arts.

Subject

Historical Inspiration

This evening gown is a great example of a designer incorporating elements of Orientalism, Art Nouveau, and historical inspiration into one dress. The floral and geometric patterns throughout the lace, embroidery, and jacquard fabric are characteristic of Art Nouveau. The tie to Orientialism in this dress lies with the fabric chrysanthemums located at the skirt bottom and waist, as well as the vibrant color.

Though Kansas was quite a ways from major fashion cities like Paris, London, and New York City, women could keep up with current styles in several ways. Newspapers contained advertisements from small local shops and large department stores throughout the week. It was also a common practice to publish articles on fashion in the weekend issues, including series written by women like "What Well Dressed Women Will Wear" by Anne Rittenhouse.