Before European settlers arrived in present-day Kansas, indigenous tribes inhabited the region, and many more were introduced when moved from their ancestral lands by those same settlers. At the junction of the Big Blue and the Kansas River was the site of a settlement founded by the people known as the Kanza. This settlement was located two miles east of Manhattan. The settlement, designated as Blue Earth Village, accommodated over 1,500 residents. This development provided the tribe with access to the adjacent water source and facilitated opportunities for buffalo hunting across the extensive plains from Nebraska to Oklahoma. In 1980 a site was found during the building of a new hotel south of Manhattan, some of the artifacts suggest continuous inhabitation for several thousand years, called the Holidome Excavation.
The population of the indigenous peoples in the region experienced a gradual decline during the early 19th century, coinciding with the westward migration of white settlers and individuals from other backgrounds. In response to the increasing challenges posed by the arrival of other indigenous groups relocated to the plains by the U.S. government, a catastrophic flood in 1820 that compelled the tribe to abandon their settlement, and confrontations with rival factions possessing superior weaponry, the Kanza people, with considerable reluctance, agreed to the signing of a treaty in 1827.
The first territorial capital was named Pawnee after the Pawnee nation. While the Pawnee nation is still vibrant, the town is no longer in existence. The city of Pawnee was located at the site of present-day Fort Riley and served as the temporary capital of the state, utilizing the legislative building for a mere five days before the capital was relocated to Shawnee Mission.
Riley County was established as one of the 36 original counties in the territory and holds the distinction of being the westernmost county at that time, located 130 miles west of Kansas City. Teams of surveyors conducted a thorough assessment to identify a suitable location for a new installation aimed at safeguarding the increasing population relocating to the western regions. In autumn of 1852, the ideal site was identified at the confluence of the Republican and Smokey Hills Rivers. This location provided essential access to water resources for both livestock and the local population. This remote outpost was initially designated as Camp Center due to its geographical position relative to the remainder of North America. On June 27, 1853, Camp Center officially adopted the name Fort Riley, in honor of General Bennet C. Riley. General Riley was the first U.S. military officer to conduct a reconnaissance of this region and is recognized as a decorated war hero for his service in both the War of 1812 and the Mexican-American War from 1846 to 1848.
The post expand significantly, aided by the efforts of Quartermaster Captain Edmund Ogden, after whom the city of Ogden is named. Captain Ogden, like numerous others, succumbed to cholera during the summer of 1855. During the Civil War era, Confederate prisoners of war were temporarily detained in this location before being transferred to Fort Leavenworth. Some of these prisoners were involved in the raiding of Council Grove, Kansas. Numerous military figures, including infamous cavalrymen like George A. Custer and distinguished general George S. Patton who were stationed at Fort Riley. This esteemed history established Fort Riley as an ideal location for the United States Cavalry School. Historically significant units, such as the Buffalo Soldiers of the 9th and 10th Cavalry Regiments, provided instruction at the school for many years. Additionally, the 1st Infantry Regiment currently resides at this post, further enriching its legacy.
By the year 1855, the discourse surrounding Kansas's potential statehood intensified, particularly regarding whether it would be designated as a free state or one that permitted the continuation of African American bondage. The territorial governance issue became relevant when Andrew Reeder, the territory's inaugural governor, opted to establish the capital in Pawnee. His decision was influenced by his considerable land ownership in a valley adjacent to the Kansas River. This location was strategically chosen to distance the capital from pro-slavery supporters in Eastern Kansas.
Pawnee, Kansas Territory, March 12, 1855, black and white photograph shows a broadside advertising the public sale of lots in the territory town of Pawnee, Kansas Historical Society, Pawnee, Kansas Territory - State Archives - Kansas Historical Society
The situation had significant negative implications for Reeder when the legislature convened, with numerous pro-slavery representatives advocating for the relocation of the capital closer to the Missouri border. The individuals in question were appointed because of the significant influx of residents from Missouri participating in an election that was subsequently referred to as the “bogus legislature” by proponents of anti-slavery movements. Governor Reeder attempted to exercise his veto power against this action. However, his efforts were ultimately overridden by the same pro-slavery representatives who previously wanted the capitol moved would also call for his removal from office by President Franklin Pierce. On August 15, 1855, the governor was dismissed from his position due to the potential financial advantages he secured from establishing the new territorial capital in his jurisdiction, coupled with concerns regarding the abuse of power.
Andrew Reeder was perceived by the pro-slavery faction as a Northerner attempting to impose his views on a region of the country with which he had no prior connections. In response to the prevailing circumstances, advocates for anti-slavery began relocating to Kansas and established an organization specifically for this purpose, known as the New England Emigrant Aid Company. One of the cities established by these new settlers is Manhattan, which has since become one of the largest cities in Northeast Kansas. Initially, it began modestly, comprised of two distinct settlements known as Polistra and Canton. However, as neither settlement expanded beyond its original size, the decision was made to merge into a singular, larger city named Boston. Shortly after being designated as Boston, the paddle steamer Hartford encountered an incident in which it ran aground on the Kansas River. This event facilitated the influx of new residents and contributed to the renaming of the city.
The community became known as Manhattan, a designation that, like many towns in Kansas established by Eastern Free-Staters, is derived from the name of a city in the Eastern United States. One notable settler was Isaac Goodnow, a professor of natural sciences from Vermont, who was heavily involved with the Methodist faith. His initial endeavor was the establishment of a private college affiliated with this religious denomination. The institution was soon established as a public school that provided equal access for both men and women. This college was first called Blue Mont Central College and converted to Kansas State Agricultural College in 1863, which has since evolved into what is now recognized as Kansas State University. The town experienced significant growth over the years, primarily due to the influence of the college and its proximity to Fort Riley, which attracted a diverse population of farmers, merchants, and scholars.
This marker was installed in 2013 by the Bayer Construction Company in collaboration with the Rex Stone Family, Morris and Bette Jean Garey Werner, Commerce Bank, and the Polly Ogden Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution.
Continuing from the Pottawatomie County section, we are now progressing into the final county that the route will traverse before reaching its ultimate destination, Fort Riley. Riley County has the highest concentration of historical markers, with a total of eleven markers. These markers represent some of the earliest installations, culminating at the U.S. Cavalry Museum on Fort Riley.
The initial marker in Riley County is appropriately located at the site where numerous cautious explorers traversed the Big Blue River, leading toward Poyntz Avenue, which has historically served as the primary thoroughfare of Manhattan, Kansas. Errick’s Ferry served as a pivotal crossing point over the Big Blue River. Operated by John Errick, it became the primary method of traversing the river, particularly following the closure of Dyer’s Crossing. The vessel utilized in this context was initially deployed at Pittsburg Crossing, situated approximately one mile upriver. The ferry underwent enhancements by a man named Woodward, who implemented improvements to facilitate the loading and unloading processes for both cargo and passengers, thereby increasing efficiency.
Subsequently, the military road proceeded along Poyntz Avenue, traversing the heart of a town that was rapidly evolving into a significant urban center in Kansas. Numerous travelers would have traversed the same route, contributing to the economic development and expansion of the city. Among these individuals was Horace Greeley, the editor of the New York Tribune, who journeyed through developing Kansas to Colorado and made stops in various burgeoning cities within the Territory. Reporting to his readership on the unique characteristics of life in the plains, he inspired a significant number of antislavery advocates to migrate to the newly established territories.
The installation occurred at the site in 2009, facilitated by Bayer Construction Company, the Travis Matteson Family, the Daughters of the American Revolution—Polly Ogden Chapter, and Commerce Bank.
This marker is prominently located at the entrance to the City Park and is highly visible due to its substantial stone design. Additionally, it serves as a memorial dedicated to Don Combs, who played a significant role in the original placement of these markers.
The subsequent three markers are situated within Warner Park, positioned on the opposite side of Seth Child Road, adjacent to the path of Wildcat Creek. The creek crossing features a rock bottom that is easily navigable. There exists a fourth stone marker located on the southern perimeter of the park, in proximity to the current alignment of Route 18. The most effective method for experiencing these sites is by traversing the paths on foot, particularly those that are well-shaded by tree cover. This approach ensures that even during the summer months, visitors can remain sheltered from direct sunlight. The initial marker is situated near the parking area of the park, and visibility is possible from that location when the foliage is not dense. This project was executed with the collaboration of Bayer Construction Company, Jim and Sue Collet, and Commerce Bank. Although they may have experienced erosion, remnants of the ruts created by heavily loaded wagons are still discernible.
The initiative once again received generous support from Bayer Construction Company, as well as from Morris and Bette Sue Werner, the family of William Varney, and the family of Dr. James S. Hunter.
To locate the next stone, proceed along the pathway to the left, following the sign that indicates "Ft. Leavenworth-Ft. Riley Military Road." The stone should be on your left side after you have crossed several bridges. The third marker was expected to be on a bridge within the park; however, it could not be identified during two separate site visits. The fourth marker at the park's perimeter is along Warner Park Road, where the park intersects with the neighboring community. This installation is made possible through the contributions of Bayer Construction Company, the families of L.R. Kidd and K.E. Rabe, as well as Capital Federal Savings Bank.
The subsequent four markers are in subdivisions that follow the steep descent into Eureka Valley. The teamsters responsible for maneuvering the convoys must have possessed considerable skill to successfully navigate this gradient. However, they were aware that after this point, there would be no further obstacles to impede their progress, and their destination would be clearly visible. The predominant type of markers present in Riley County are the stone variant, which features a brass plate inscribed with a brief description of the events that took place at that specific location along the road. All markers were installed in 2009, except for the metal stand-type marker located at Shadow Ridge off Scenic Drive, which was installed in 2016. The installation of all markers was accomplished through the collaborative efforts of Bayer Construction and contributions from private donors and organizations.
In 2009, this marker was placed with the support of Bayer Construction Company, as well as contributions from Dilbert and Jeane Stadel, the family of Travis Matteson, the Riley County Historical Society, and the Polly Ogden Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution.
Eureka Valley was among the earliest groups of settlers in Manhattan who established their agriculture on the region's flat terrain, which has also proven to be advantageous for modern aviation, allowing for the landing of aircraft at the regional airport. Many individuals residing in this area have played significant roles as influential contributors to the local community, particularly through their service and support of the Army at Fort Riley. These individuals were bankers, merchants, and contractors for the Army, responsible for transporting freight via convoys to both military forts. The penultimate marker is in the center of the valley on one of the respective homesteads.
Upon passing what now is the town of Ogden, named in honor of the quartermaster of Fort Riley, soldiers would enter the fort itself and proceed to the stables to tend to your horse and, ideally, obtain some rest for yourself. This marks the conclusion of our journey. The final marker is located at the U.S. Army Cavalry Museum, which was originally constructed as the base's hospital in 1855. The museum has recently undergone renovations in 2024 and now features new exhibits. This final marker is distinct from the others encountered throughout the journey; it depicts a trooper mounted on horseback, rendering a military salute. The installation is entitled "Duty" which is tribute to all cavalrymen and horses that made the ultimate sacrifice.
For more information about Ft. Riley or the museums on the installation follow the links below:
For more information about the Riley County Historical Society or Riley County Genealogy Society follow the links below:
For more information about the Holidome Excavation or anything involving the Kansas State Archeology Program follow the link below:
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